Tempering Chocolate

Learn the most essential skill when working with chocolate in just a few easy steps! I will show you how to make perfectly tempered chocolate that has a bright shine, great snap, and delicious texture every time!

This is going to be one of those posts that will, at first, feel more like alchemy than chocolate work. But stay with me here! I know that tempering might seem really intimidating, and it can be at times due to the molecular science involved. However, I'm here to help simplify the process and your overall understanding so that you get exquisite results again and again.

For reference, all commercially-available chocolate comes perfectly tempered, without exception. Every bar, every truffle, every praline, every piece of Halloween candy -- it's all tempered. Much of our recipes also involve working with tempered chocolate, so this is truly a foundational skill that, once understood and with some practice, you can make ANY chocolate confection you desire.

What Is Tempering Chocolate?

Without getting too into the molecular science of it, tempering chocolate is the process of melting cocoa butter crystals and restructuring them into their most stable formation (known as "Beta-5 crystals" or "Form-V crystals).

What does that mean, in practice?

Tempering is the process of heating chocolate to melt all existing cocoa butter crystals, then gradually cooling it to allow new crystals to form, then gently reheating the chocolate again to maintain the new, stable crystal growth.

And yes, all types of chocolate can be tempered: dark, milk, and white.

Tempering chocolate allows for it to achieve the following characteristics which make it so mouth-wateringly delicious:

• an ultra-shiny finish
• an unblemished appearance once it sets (no streaks or flecks -- these are either "sugar bloom" or "fat bloom")
• doesn't easily melt in your hand
• has a smooth, creamy texture
• has a clean, firm snap when broken into pieces

So when you're working with chocolate and you notice either a speckled or streaky appearance, lack of shine, or a grainy texture, immediately suspect an improper temper being the root cause.

When Do I Need to Temper Chocolate?

If you are looking to create molding chocolates, hand-dipped confections, or chocolate bars, then you will need to temper the chocolate first. I even take it a step further and temper chocolate even when I'm dipping fruit or pretzels, even though it is common to see many others use purely melted chocolate. While these tasty treats can technically get away without being properly tempered, I prefer to do so for the end result's superior crunch and higher-quality look and feel.

How to Temper Chocolate

Tempering is usually done one of two ways: the "seeding" method, and the "tabling" method. While we will explore each of these techniques below, you will find that I wholly prefer the seeding method for its simplicity and lack of mess!

Seeding Method

As mentioned above, this technique is easy to learn and great for beginners. It involves the following steps:

1. Reference the chocolate's packaging for precise temperature instructions for that particular brand and type (white, milk, or dark).
   
2. Heat chocolate to a high enough temperature that melts all existing cocoa butter crystals.
   
3. Add a small quantity of existing (i.e., already tempered) chocolate to cool the chocolate and introduce beta-5 crystals that will begin to multiply.
   
4. Gradually lower the temperature of the chocolate by stirring constantly until it reaches the correct temperature indicated on the packaging.
   
5. While continuing to stir, gently heat the chocolate to the final temperature labeled on the package.

Tabling Method

This technique is usually practiced by experience chocolatiers due to its faced-paced nature and reliance on visual cues, and contains the following steps:

1. Reference the chocolate's packaging for precise temperature instructions for that particular brand and type (white, milk, or dark).
   
2. Heat chocolate to a high enough temperature that melts all existing cocoa butter crystals.
   
3. Pour two-thirds of the melted chocolate onto a clean and DRY marble slab. Use a chocolate spatula to push the chocolate around to cool it and help new cocoa butter crystals form.
   
4. Once the chocolate has thickened, scrape it back into the bowl and then continue to stir until the chocolate reaches the final temperature listed on the package.

Neither method is better than the other, so it all comes down to personal preference. As mentioned above, many people prefer the seeding method, and it is the technique from which I recommend everyone begin.

Can Any Chocolate Be Tempered?

No! Only chocolate made up of cocoa butter and cocoa solids (aka, "real chocolate") can be tempered. Most candy wafers, chocolate chips, and other such "melting" chocolate are made with vegetable oil instead of cocoa butter, so these cannot be tempered since there aren't any cocoa butter crystals to form.

Ingredients

Chocolate, any one type -- self-explanatory. Again, only use real chocolate, and coverture works best, such as Callebaut or Valrhona, among others.

Tips for Success

1. Never, ever, ever, EVER let water or any type of moisture touch the chocolate. Doing so will make the chocolate seize, and there is no way to remedy this one it occurs and the chocolate will have to be discarded.
   
2. It is much easier to keep a large quantity of chocolate in temper, as a smaller quantity cannot retain as much heat and thus cools much faster. For this reason, do not attempt to temper less than 3 pounds (or ~950 grams) of chocolate.
   
3. Whenever possible, use coverture chocolate for its higher cocoa butter content. Coverture chocolate is used exclusively in molding chocolates, adds a spectacular finish and texture to hand-dipped confections, and makes ganache even silkier.
   
4. You can choose the melt the chocolate either in the microwave or on the stovetop using a double-boiler.
   
5. If using the microwave, heat in 30-second intervals and stir in between to ensure you don't scald the chocolate, which will have to be discarded.

Detailed Preparation Instructions

Weigh out 3 pounds (~950 grams) of one type of chocolate. Using either the microwave or a double-boiler, gently melt the chocolate, stirring occasionally.

Using the seeding method, remove the bowl from the heat and toss in 1-2 handfuls of coverture pistoles into the melted chocolate. Stir continuously from here on out until a thermometer registers the recommended temperature on the chocolate's packaging.

Using either a heat gun, microwave, or a double-boiler, gently heat the chocolate to the final temperature listed on the packaging.

Dip an offset spatula into the chocolate to test its temper. If it sets quickly and comes out smooth and shiny, it's ready to use!